Games Workshop Citadel Shade: Drakenhof Nightshade

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And that’s pretty much it. The whole thing was pretty easy, with the shading being the most time-consuming part. The marine may be off-white in the end, but he’s white enough that it works on the table and looks great. Credit: Robert “TheChirurgeon” Jones Coat D'Arms match the OLD citadel colours (pre-1992) so there might be some difference. Shining gold has the most noticeable difference, The weapon glow on the lasers is accomplished by laying down a base of off-white (I used VMA Light Gull Gray), then using Contrast Blood Angels Red washed with Carroburg Crimson, and finally adding a strip of a brighter color in the middle to sell the effect. Legio Venator in Adeptus Titanicus Tactical Overview Moving on to the red, I use Mephiston Red for a base and just be stupidly careful while I paint it. For the squad markings, I freehand them and they just really take a lot of practice. You’ll want to do the usual two thin coats, because even with a base color as strong as this, the white still will show through if you don’t. I used Asurman Blue on a lot of my GK as I painted them a long time ago. I now use Drakenhoff Nightshade which is quite a bit darker than Asurman was, but it’s still decent. I wash the entire model in this to try and get an even colour, although you can just wash the recesses if you want. This is to add the blueish tint that GK are known for. Layer

Condit: The cool thing about this is that you’re paying 20 points for a copy of a useful stratagem, and the thing you buy can situationally be better than the stratagem it replaces. Use this and obscuring terrain to impose a -3 to hit your Titans until you’re ready to spring the trap, at which point it should be too late. In our How to Paint Everything series we look at how to paint, well, everything! We look at the lore and heraldry around the models and talk about multiple techniques and methods for painting them. In today’s How to Paint Everything, we’re looking at how to paint the grim heroes of Warhammer Quest: The Cursed City. The detail work on the top carapace is pretty standard as well – a few different metallics with appropriate washes over them and the GW-standard parchment recipe – Rakarth Flesh, thinned Agrax, then Pallid Wych Flesh over top. I’m planning to put some more detailing on that once I come up with a name for the thing.Stage 3 is layering. This stage involves applying a layer of a lighter colour, generally focussed towards the top of the model, avoiding the areas previously shaded. This guide also features a lot of line highlights at this stage. This involves applying a thin line of paint to the raised areas and straight edges of the area. If you find yourself unsure of where to apply the highlights or spot highlights, look over the images alongside the guide and compare that stage to the last. Stage 2 is shading. During this stage we apply washes and glazes to the more shadowed areas of the miniatures, particularly the lower edges and undersides. before the original scheduled date for this article someone spotted there were no White Scars painted for the article with a regular brush, so I rummaged through my bits box to mash up a White Scars-looking marine.

After basecoating I wash the red with Carroburg Crimson, then re-apply Mephiston Red to the non-recessed feathers and the skull. After that I edge highlight with Evil Sunz Scarlet. You don’t need to do this part, but it really makes a huge difference. Credit: OhDearGodNo Credit: OhDearGodNo The base coat is VMA White Grey. I found this to be the best looking temperature of white. It’s warmer than a ‘pure’ white, however not so much that it would begin to look more like a bone-ish color. For models that aren’t batch painted or require extra detail, it also gives a little room for edge highlighting. The Citadel Colour paint range gets a truly blue Shade, which works wonderfully with colours such as Caledor Sky on the cloaks and capes of the Lumineth Realm-lords . Multiple methods for how to paint Heresy-era White Scars, who use a similar scheme with some different visual elements. Also, remember that models look good with contrast, so many painters not only use the recesses, but use weathering -- like in the pictures above, or the Tau Stormsurge. You'll notice tha the ochre versions look pretty good clean, but all the white versions are muddied up. That's because an unweathered white Stormsurge would look like a plastic Gundam model unpainted -- just too plasticy and with too little depth.

Step 6. More Details

Perhaps the images are just too small to see, but to me it looks like all the shading comes from weathering rather than a blue-grey wash you'd get with Drakenhof+Nuln. FW appear to use the "weathering for depth" technique quite often (starting with a clean colour and then just add weathering instead of shades and highlights, or only minimal shades and highlights). Below are the paints I use for an Intercessor. If the model has any brass ammo components showing, I will also use Vallejo Model Color Old Gold 70.878 and wash with Nuln Oil. Add in a little more Mephiston Red and layer up again, concentrating on raised areas where light would hit

Normally at this point I’d splash on the Nuln Oil and call it a day but I’m actually after a cleaner bright look so I left this one as is. Next step is to hit it with some Varnish and call it done (for now). Beanith’s How to Smoosh Cleona ZeitengaleAs far as stratagems go, Concealment Barrage and Long Retreat are going to see play in most of my games. Long Retreat is an obvious one, since it will let me reposition if I get outflanked, or keep space between me and an advancing melee Titan while still pouring the fire on. Concealment Barrage may seem like an odd one for a ranged-focused list, but having it on hand will allow me to carve up the board and move in to take out my chosen target while minimizing the chance of suffering retribution. During the Age of Strife the God-Engines of the Forge World Arachnus protected their people from the native mega-arachnids and invaders from outside the system. When discovered by the Great Crusade, Arachnus insisted that they remain sovereign which saw the start of a bloody compliance action which would see Arachnus losing the majority of it’s small empire and the depletion of the Legio Venator “Iron Spiders” Titans.