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Posted 20 hours ago

Olympus EE-1 Dot Sight for Cameras with Hot Shoe,Black

£39.995£79.99Clearance
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The internal LED is turned on with a knob on the left side of the casing, which also allows the LED intensity to be adjusted. The optimal LED intensity depends on ambient illumination. The EE-1 casing pops open by sliding a latch on its rear. The instructions say that closing the sight turns off the LED. I have been unable to confirm this, since the LED remains on when the case is even slightly open. If there is a hidden switch, it does not engage until the casing is completely closed and the LED is invisible. A dot-sight contains a holographic reticle illuminated by an LED or laser diode. The hologram displays a circle-and-cross pattern image projected at infinity. The apparent size and distance of the target pattern remains constant, regardless of the distance between eye and dot-sight. Except for the reticle, there is nothing else between eye and subject, so a dot-sight only provides a 1:1 magnification. Overall, holding your camera 10" away from your face isn't a great position to use. If your camera has a viewfinder it's best to use it, especially from an ergonomic standpoint. At the time a fellow was selling a camera mount for a laser dot with a dovetail on the top and a thaded hotshoe mount on te bottom to attach it to the camera. I assembled this rig & mounted it on a FZ200, attached to tripod. I focused on distant object, adjusting things so the center of the screen (not viewfinder) screen & laser dot lined up exactly. The challenge becomes even greater when you try to photograph a bird in flight (BIF) more or less filling the frame. Photographing a bird in flight with loads of space around it is manageable, but as soon as the bird gets close enough to nearly fill the frame, it really gets difficult—for the camera, the lens and the photographer.

Note that the configuration is related to the focal length used. For example if you set up everything for a 100mm lens and then change it for a 300mm lens, it is likely that you will need to reconfigure everything. The EE-1 makes more sense to use with very long focal lengths but if you intend to use different lenses, the best option is to configure it with the longest telephoto you have. If you are using a zoom lens, start at the longest focal length. Keep the live view on the LCD screen activated so that you can see your composition better. Adjust your camera’s position until you see that reference point in the middle of the LCD screen. Now look at the EE-1 and move the red dot until it sits on the same reference point as the centre of your composition. It is important that you remain in the same position while performing the whole operation so that your view of the LCD screen and Red Dot Sight doesn’t change much. Now everything you point the Dot Sight at should appear at the centre of your image. It worked quite well, although framing was imprecise at times, moving my eye slightly moved the reticule relative to the subject a little. The RDS has some play in the hotshoe until you tighten the thumbwheel, and the adjustment dials are easy to move during handling, so I always align the RDS each time I mount it (I don't leave it mounted on the camera at home) Here's a general description: http://www.pewpewtactical.com/red-dot-sights/ They are used a lot with guns; less so with cameras. Basically it's dot that looks like it's out there, but is only floating in the sight itself. Put dot on object and firearm or camera are aimed (although as with rangefinder sights, viewfinders that don't use the lens itself, etc one must take into account parallax and so on).

The EE-1 is small, light and made of robust plastic. It is also dust and splash proof, meaning I was able to use it in light rain without any fear of damaging it. It uses a coin-type battery.

I'm looking for ways to improve my autofocus on my cameras including the E-M1 and I see a mention of the Olympus EE-1 Dot Sight. This was much easier because only the exposed frame on the 'viewfinder' had to be superimposed over the scene. The effect is of a frame floating over the wide scene of view. I have one, but I don't use it much. I bought it as I found the EVF tiring to use for long periods and with a limited FoV. However there are some issues and I tend to use my FF DSLR more for BIF now, as it isn't tiring and you get a wider FoV for the same reach. When fitted i aligned the dot by auto point-focusing the lens on a known subject and adjusting the red dot to suit via a small play in the hot shoe mount.It doesn't but relies on the native camera AF capability when it finds its target via the sighting screen which has to be mechanically aligned. My EE-1 is arriving today! And in a few hours I will be trying it out for the first time with my extreme setup. Timely question! Of late, I have been pushing the limits of my equipment - photographing swallows and swifts drinking and bathing on the wing ... using my Olympus 300mm + MC-20 (1200mm equivalent!!!). It requires split-second accuracy, not helped by the fact that MC-20 slows down target acquisition. But when it works, it works brilliantly.

When hearing the name Olympus, you might think about micro-43. But this tool is just as good when used on a Canon, Nikon, Fujifilm or Sony camera as it is on a micro-43 camera from Olympus or Panasonic. The only thing you need is a hotshoe on top of the camera for attaching the Olympus EE-1 DOT SIGHT. HOW DOES AN OLYMPUS EE‑1 DOT SIGHT WORK? I wish I had those skills and equipment, my wife would be very happy...I could fix a lot more stuff and there might be less nagging. I identified and positioned the subject under the reticule, then what, the camera/lens is 'wobbly' in my hands. The minimum distance for achieving this is a learning process, too close and it is accurate, framing and AF positioning is off. The EE-1 is lightweight (73 g with battery), and designed to mount on the flash shoe of the camera. It folds down to about twice the size of the mini electronic flash included with all high-end Olympus cameras, and uses a cheap CR2032 battery that lasts quite a long time. Unlike the dedicated mini flash, it does not draw power from the camera, which means it can be used on any camera, or even off-camera.It's well made and much smaller/lighter than most home-brew solutions (for attaching a gun RDS to a Cold shoe). Do I need to be able to see the light hitting the target? - I'm partly color blind and I struggle with colored lights. Lenses – The lens has dust inside that may affect images. The rubber zoom/focus ring is coming away from the barrel of the lens. Below is a good example of 10 consecutive shots where I managed to keep the bird almost always at the centre. I was using the MC-14 Teleconverter in addition to the M.Zuiko 300mm lens so I could get a real close up of the bird. This is where the EE-1 becomes really useful. The angle of view is so narrow that it can be difficult to keep your subject in the frame without having a larger view of the scene.

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